I would appreciate all comments, offer of content etc so please drop me (Martin) a line a- martin@spyderryders.net.au . If you have some new idea or a photo of a new accessory that you believe others would like to see then please send that too but please keep the file sizes down (500kb or less)
Don't miss all the great aftermarket Accessories for your Spyder - I will road test as much as I can - its a tough job but someone has to do it!
Back in 2008 I bought a rack for Givi panniers from Canada (it was the only option at the time) The airfreight ended up costing as much as the rack so I looked at other options and found that I could bring in 10 racks for $1,000 freight whereas one had cost me $460 freight. I no longer import racks as there are better and cheaper local sources now but I do bring in batches of other product where feasable, to save on freight costs.
I generally have stock here (Gold Coast) of Custom Dynamics handlebar risers , air filters, mirror extensions, Madstad adjustable windscreens , shortee antenas for RT's, highway foot peg kits for RS and RT, spark plug leads, iridium spark plugs, Evoluzione heavier sway bars, O2 modifiers, Spyderpops accessories, a comprehensive range of LED lighting for Spyders and much more.
28/01/2012 Hi Martin,
I am seriously looking at buying a new Spyder RT with trailer in order to escape the cold of tasmania during winter and spend that time site seeing the more scenic top end areas of Australia. Such a trip is lacking in a big way if there isn't a group to share the experience. How hard do you think it would be to get a like minded group together. As mentioned before I live in Tasmania and I'm 63. I have done around 200,000km on Harleys, but no longer feel bullet proof, hence the planned switch to a Spyder. I know this just calls for an opinion but maybe this idea of a 6 month road trip has some appeal to the members. I would also be interested in talking with anyone thinking about touring another country with their Spyder.
The demise of Evoluzione. With Ken Zeller ceasing business the suppy of heavier Spyder sway bars has gone. I am currently selling Evoluzione sway bars back to people in the US so if you were considering gettting one (particularly effective on the RS/GS) now will be pretty much your last chance. When they are all gone they are all gone.
Mark in Melbourne says -
"The sway bar is fitted. The initial feeling of it is much “tighter”. I pressed it fairly hard on the way into work today. On a sweeping right turn onto the freeway I was able to get the front wheels to slide without having the feeling that it was going to lift up, this was under fairly hard acceleration. I also tried it on a sharper but lower speed right turn with less acceleration, and found that when I got the inside wheel to lift, it felt more controlled and a matter of observation, not concern."
New! -RT grill set
These new grills take only minutes to install using small screws. They are a 3D form like no others which add style and class like they should have come from the factory. Designed to work with the SPY111 block off plate.
$137 inc GST per set of two.
Where "The Dark Knight" would like to dock his Ipad? See Bat Cycle
Ezy Risers fitted.
Hey Martin
This is what my risers look like fitted. I am a short person and this gives me a great possie very close to the RT.
The improvement in handling is great look forward to dealing with you again
Cheers Angie.
Hi Martin,
I installed the 4 1/2" Ezy Risers to my RSS and what a difference it has made to comfort and handling. It is almost like a new bike. I wish I had done it months ago. The difference is staggering
Regards, Kevin in Victoria
Ever see a Spyder do this before?!!!!
Budget priced LED mudflap lights
Replace the reflectors on the mudflaps of your front mudguards with these LED clusters at a budget price. These are screw on (screws supplied) not "stick on". Wiring and connectors included.
Just $65 a set including GST
Black or chrome trim - red lens
"Cooler running" for RS/GS....
I often have people ask me for the "cooler running kit" for the RS/GS. Just to explain there are 3 different Spyderpops "heat deflectors" for the GS/RS and they all perform quite different tasks.
The Missing Air Dam- ensures that air that mormally scoots around the radiator actually gets forced through it improving cooling - ($29 inc GST.)
The Air Management Kit – ensures all the hot air is deflected out the right side and away from your right foot (eliminating the hot right foot issue). It also includes a scoop ( "E Scoop") to get more fresh cool air in. ($65 inc GST)
The Missing Heat Shield. This shield is coated with a high temperature reflective surface and serves two purposes, shield your foot from the exhaust pipe within inches of your foot and route “HOT” radiator and engine exhaust air past your foot and down to the ground. A must have when applying the brake pedal repeatedly for traffic stops.($57 inc GST)
Most people fit at least the missing air dam and air management kit. Some like the missing heat shield as well.
"Cooler running" for RT
The RT radiator block -Keep the heat off your right foot by installing this insulated shield. Made from black polycarbonate and laminated with heat shielding on the inside. $33.00 inc GST
The RT Catalytic convertor heat sheild– Stop the unwanted heat radiating off the catalytic converter on both sides. The converter is exposed below the roadster and radiates extreme heat directly to both feet when going at a slower speed, especially uncomfortable for passengers. Available in both semi-automatic and standard shift versions. Simple installation that takes only minutes! Black polycarbonate with the heat shielding on the back side $53.75 inc GST
Wayne from Melbourne writes....
hi i am writing to you just to tell you your site is a very good source to products and problems..
.i am a t8 complete paraplegic and have a 2011 spyder rss se5 i used the isci handbrake assembley and some lighting foot boards that mount in orignal footpeg mounts with a couple of straps to hold my feet on as i am paralised from chest down
i am limited to travel a tank of petrol at a time as i cant get of to fill as i dont like traveling with my wheelchair but am looking at getting a corbin seat with flap i just fill up by a 20l jerry can at home after a ride but these are a fun bike and now im not limited to looking out a window in a car well done to can-am.
now love hitting the streets of melbourne amazing the looks you get and everyone wanting to talk to you .I like looking at your site for hints and tips good work thanks
RT owners watch out for this one too!
The windshield of the RTs are held by three points. Two points are pivot points & the third, which is in the center of the shield, is the dog-boned shaped metal adjustment mechanism that actually goes up & down with the press of your button on the RECC. Its that metal, dog-boned shaped mechanism that is failing, usually with a noticable crack half way thru, before it actually gives, and cracks all the way through. Just keep an eye on yours. If it breaks, a hose-clamp can offer a temporary fix.
A couple of people have reported to me rough running issues after having spark plugs changed. Watching the US Forums it seems that the OEM carbon cables are extremely fragile and often fracture or arc after being disturbed - as happens when changing plugs.
Dale emailed me - "put the spyder in for its first service today everything was fine before it went to the shop when I got it back it was idleing rough and when you take off it is like it is missing ... took it back to shop they put it on computer and they say it all says it is fine .. " I suggested plug leads- he replied" Martin took the bike back and they removed spark plugs found nothing wrong with plugs then changed leads and bingo problem solved thank you for the information that you sent "
I am importing some better quality and much more durable spark plug wires, made using MSD Super Conductor OR Accel Race Wire and also NGK Iridium spark plugs. Iridium is a favorite among many big-name aftermarket manufacturers, exotic car OEMs and enthusiasts looking for an extra edge. The center electrode of an iridium plug tapers to a point as it nears its ground; the idea being that it focuses spark energy into a narrow, more intense arc, thus increasing combustion efficiency.They should be here shortly so please let me know if you are interested.
OEM ones are left in image and new "Race Wire" or "MSD" ones on the right.
Lead sets $70 inc GST includes dialectric grease for boots and heat paste for plugs.
NGK Iridium spark plugs $12 each inc GST (specify RS or RT)
Here are some of the improvements of these wires over original BRP cables.
OEM - High resistance Carbon Core reduces spark energy at the spark plug and tends to break down over time causing misfires and backfiring. Manipulating these wires (as when you change a spark plug) can cause unseen damage and problems. Custom - Low resistance, Spiral Wound bi-metallic wire core provides a continual, hard wire electrical path delivering more energy to the spark plug ~ Metal wire does not break down like the carbon core. Handling is not destructive.
Spark Plug Boot
OEM - Standard Automotive Rubber provides minimal resistance against arching. Can deteriorate in high heat conditions increasing chance of arching as the boot ages. Handling can be destructive - Short length makes it hard to grip for installation/removal as it is recessed into the Spark Plug hole. Custom - High Quality Silicone provides maximum protection against arching. Silicone's resistance to high heat environments helps these boots last a long time - Extended Length brings the top of the boot above the the Spark Plug hole making it easy to install/remove. Handling is not destructive.
Coil Boot
OEM - Automotive Rubber Custom - 45 deg. High Quality Silicone. 45 degree angle helps it to lay up to the frame rail. (Ok, admittidely the coil boot is not that big a deal, the stock rubber boot is probably all that is needed at this end of the wire. Still, this is a high quality race boot and a nice improvement at the Coil end).
Noise (RFI & EMI Interferance)
OEM - Good suppression of both noise sources, can deteriorate as carbon core breaks down. Custom - Excellent suppression of both noise sources, will not deteriorate as long as wires are servicable.
New stronger RS highway peg brackets in stock.
I have been importing a few highway peg bracket sets but because they are so heavy the air freight has meant they were quite expensive. Also they could not support a lot of weight.
I now stock some that are bit lighter and much stronger. These brackets bolt on to your motor mount bolts and provide a footpeg mount point approximately 12 inches forward, and 4 inches outboard of the stock footpeg location. These are designed in 3D CAD, laser cut, CNC bent, welded, and then powder coated black. $238 inc GST
They have a half inch (12mm) mounting hole for footpegs of your choice that are readily available locally or I can assist with those too for $60 a set including GST - see image to right.
Stretch out in comfort with the MadStad Foot Rests for the Can-Am Spyder RT.
They are very solid, made from 1/8” thick stainless steel and bolted into the framework of your Spyder. Two hidden supports (also 1/8” thick stainless) run down to the steel frame so that you are not just attached to plastic. No modification or drilling is necessary and they can be removed to return the bike to stock configuration.
These footrests are not coated; they are polished stainless steel with black grip stripes. Also available in black powdercoat.
Complete set $310 inc GST
Reports on "Spyderlovers.com" say-
I just put them on my RT and they are just what I was looking for... Madstad did it right. They are very easy to put on remember to take the under cover off to let the heat out, also you will want to put the Spyderpops shield on the right to side to keep the heat off your right foot. Cj and I just came back from a 290mi ride and I love them. Thanks Mark.
Ok this is short and sweet if you have a RT the Madstad foot rest is hands down the best I have seen and the install was 45 min from start to finish,take a look at their stuff it was very impressive!
* Note -On the right side the rider's leg will be directly behind the radiator vent, so the Spyderpops RT radiator block ($33.00) is a "must" and will resolve the heat issue.
Feedback on Spyder handling from Mark.
I have been riding the Spyder every day, and as reported earlier I have installed the Fournales units as well as your sway bar. I have a fair bit of experience now in working out what works. The end result is that you need to have soft springing at the front to have compliance; but unless you have progressive springs; the harshness you need to control weight transfer will cause you to bounce otherwise. The Fournales gives you real progression, and this means you can load up the outside wheel much more than with standard springs, and you don't help lift the inside wheel.
I am no longer having to use so much body English to maintain a good pace. Body English still has its place, and you still have to cope with the g-forces; but it can go a lot better than the standard set up.
This brings me to the problems I would like to address.
I want softer brake pads. I miss the "bite" and immediate "hit the wall" effect of a good motorcycle set up. Softer pads may well help here, without a lot of messing around. Do you know if there are after market pads or, if not, if anyone has a worn out set of pads to allow me to make a pattern and reline them? I still think I could get a lot more power with a hand lever perhaps with a separate independent hydraulic circuit to a slave cylinder pushing on the foot lever - sort of hydraulic / mechancial boost to the braking. Has anyone worked out something like that?
Second issue is clutch plates. The clutch drags, huge clunk going into 1st. The clutch may slip, but then again, it may be the crap traction, but good wearing, rear tyre. My guess it is the tyre. If I am wrong, do you know of any other clutch plates or modification? The dry clutch on my BMW twin has spoilt me. Have you heard of any alternative tyres (my concern is the big one at the back). It sure wears well, but it just don't stick. I had a set of tyres on one of my cars that did not grip at all in the wet. These standard tyre is just the same.
Apart from these niggles, the Spyder is fine, and very enjoyable (if a bit heavy on fuel). Mark
UPDATE 18/12/11 - Since my last message to you I have taken some active steps to address the issues.
The first one is that I have been advised that the Kenda tyres are a standard car size; but the size itself is not a usual one. According to a local retailer (Donnellens), Hankook produces the same sizes. Insofar as this information is valid for Spyders, the Kenda tyre is long lasting and is well known for limited grip. The Hankook tyre offers much more grip, but less wear. The Hankook rear is about $225, and if you were to change the fronts, they are $99 each; and are of a different tread pattern to the rear.
I have also purchased and fitted the ICIS hydraulic braking system. This was purchased over the 'Net from the manufacturer in Montgomery Alabama. They shipped it via USPS and it took just on 15 days to arrive, undamaged, and complete. Fitting (if you don't much around) is simple, and 2 to 3 hours for a shade-tree mechanic. The biggest problem is getting your fingers into the confined spaces. The full fitting instructions, including colour photographs, are available from ICIS's web-site. The pictures and text are all accurate.
In operation, the Spyder is much more like a motorcycle, and you get the illusion of having a front and rear brake. If you use the front brake alone, the freeplay in the rear brake give you a soft lever. If you apply them at the same time (and with the back it need only be a soft application) you get a full lever at the front and you can get the ABS to come on, and make the rear wheel light enough that it dances through weight transfer onto the front. All of the pieces are well made, and are accurate in fitting and robust.
Fitting does not void my insurance policy and since the Spyder is now 2 years old, warranty is not an issue; however I doubt if it would affect the warranty as there is now interference with the standard brake system in any event.
Apart from having the faster application of stronger braking force on the road, the hand lever is also useful when you are pushing the Spyder around.
There were 3 things that I identified when I first road a Spyder 3 or 4 years ago. Terrible horn. Heat being dumped onto my right leg. No front brake lever. All of these things are now fixed (and a few more besides). It makes for a more enjoyable ride if your background has been motorcycles.
Something to watch
A client recently fitting an Evoluzione RT sway bar came back to me with some issues relating the the ends of the link rods (that go from the lower suspension arm to the ends of the sway bar) The ends are spherical bearings held in plastic mouldings.
Doing some research on the US forums (there are a lot more Spyders there so more faults are reported) I discovered a couple of RT owners (and one RS owner) who had found these rod ends had cracked - even though they still had their standard OEM sway bar on.
No reports of any actually failing yet and Evoluzione have not struck the problem but it seems like its something that just affects a few RT's (mainly).
UPDATE 19/12/11 This issue seems to me to relate to ride height. That is people with their suspension set softer may tend to experience an issue with the links coming into contact with the frame but those with stiffer suspension and therefore a greater ride height, do not as the links hang more vertically. If the links make contact with the frame when cornering a "click" sound can usually be heard.
Limp mode after oil change.
Be aware that in some instances after you do an oil change the Spyder will go into "limp home mode". Aparently it is a reasonably common occurance in the US where there are way more Spyders than in Oz. The easy fix is just to ride around the block. Usually reving the motor over 3,000 will clear it and all is fine.
One unfortunate new owner in the US trailered the Spyder back to the dealer (aparently a new and inexperienced one) where they blamed it on a "non genuine" oil filter and presented them with a huge bill.
New! -Replacement weather strip for RS and RT.
This weatherstrip replaces the original weatherstrip on the trunk with a sponge type bulb which will keep it's shape over time unlike the original. I will keep a couple here.
SPY112 for RS -$25 inc GST
SPY116 for RT - $25 inc GST
Embarrassing admission.
For all if the "missing belt guards" I have sent out around Australia , I have just never got round to putting one on my own Spyder! I dont ride on the dirt and don't do a lot of K's so I should be OK to rely on BRP's standard beltguard ? WRONG!!
I just noticed an neat bite taken out of every tooth on my belt. Luckily it has not damaged the strands of the belt, just taken a small "bite" out of every tooth. Upon investigation I found a small piece of bitumen (luckily not a chunk of gravel) stuck into the rear sprocket. When I took the bits off to fit a belt guard ( I know but better late than never) a small handfull of rocks fell on the driveway!
I have a new belt on its way from the US ($300 is better than $750 from BRP locally) but I probably wont change it yet as the damage was minimal. But I was very lucky! The Spyderpops "missing belt guard" is now installed.
Great paintjob.
Hi Martin,
Just thought I would send in some photo's of the latest additions for the gallery if you wish to add any of them with my ICANIAM photo. I will be in touch for some more gear later on.
Cheers
Tony Freeman.
Safety booklet for 3 wheelers featuring the Spyder. Its from the US so you may not agree with it 100% but its interesting - Download the 7mb PDF document.
Spyder now in Ipad game
In certain levels of the Asphalt 6: Adrenaline HD game that comes on IPads you can select a Spyder.
New! - RT "Vader" LED kit - Vader headlight kit includes 2 pcs of slim design LED’s, connecting block, waterproof blue LED switch, alcohol pad and full color instructions ready for install $70 inc GST
Information for the Spyder that will help people with paraplegia become mobile- from Greg Hayden
RT catalytic convertor heat shield - Stop the unwanted heat radiating off the catalytic converter on both sides.
The converter is exposed below the roadster and radiates extreme heat directly to both feet when going at a slower speed, especially uncomfortable for passengers.
In seperate versions for the auto and manual models
$55.00 inc GST
RT radiator block. - Keep the heat off your right foot by installing this insulated shield.
Made from black polycarbonate and laminated with heat shielding on the inside.
$33.00 inc GST
Looking for Spyder panniers (same as genuine) but at a reasonable price?
Hi Martin, FYI and also thought that it maybe of interest to you and other spyder ryders. Excellent prices and very hard to beat. I understand Luigi also speaks English which is a plus. I am not sure what the Air Express costs are to Oz ($120?) Regards Tom Bourke * Note from Martin- the figures below include the top box rack and the top box so this is the whole "box and dice".
Hi Tom,
sorry we had problems with the ADSL plus it was bank holiday yesterday in Italy.
So, these are the prices for the following items. On each price we have applied a 25% discount:
1. PLX770 Side Case Kit Rack = € 117,00
2. SR770 Top Case Kit Rack = € 84,50
3. V46N Top Case (w red trim) = € 136,00
4. V35N Side Cases (Pair /w red trim) = € 260,00
5. M5 attachment plate = € 23,50
The sum total is € 621 (about $850au) The shipping to Australia with Poste italiane (www. poste.it) for a package weighing between 16 and 20 kilos is € 173Goods + shipping = € 794. (790 is fine). *about $1100 AUD- Martin
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Kind regards,
Luigi
centralricambi@gmail.com
2011Central Ricambi srl - Via Vincenzoni, 15
62100 Montecassiano (MC)
Ph 0733 290660
Ride on the dirst a bit?? Or how about a concept bike?? Thanks to Lamonster and Docduru www.spyderlovers.com
I am looking at bringing in some electronic visors. It applies inside your existing visor and the change to tint is instant (touch of a button.) Up to 60 hours use on a charge - recharges from USB. Easy to fit - Fail safe (reverts to clear when flat)
"Experience instantaneous rider-controlled visor tint insert. Same technology that the US military fighter pilots used in their helmets are now ready to hit the road! A small electronics module mounts to the side of your face shield and with the quick touch of a button your visor will instantly change tint. It is also equipped with superior anti-fog coating that is further enhanced by the thermal qualities of the double lens."
Price should be around $129 inc GST - please let me know if you are interested.
Spyder Eyz LED Rings and Fenderz 29/03/11
In the pictures below you will see the Spyder Eyz LED headlight rings and Fenderz LED strips as well as the LED replacements for the fender tip lights fitted to my Spyder. I have put the Spyder Eyz on my high beams only (my headlights are not switched on in these photos) They are rings with self adhesive that mount around either the high or low beams and they really make the Spyder stand out from the front- I am trying to eliminate the "sorry but I did not see you" scenario.
I must admit after fitting the Fenderz (they sit flush into the grooves in the mud guards) my initial reaction was that I felt like a "Christmas tree" but I had a long ride in rain and low visibility on the highway recently and I was very glad to have them on! They also make the Spyder's width more obvious from behind. As you can see the LED replacements for the fender tip lights are noticeably brighter too!
I keep the Fenderz here in white/red and amber/red , and the tip LED's in white and amber. I think amber would suit the yellow Spyders. See accessories.
Tried to replace a tail light globe yet??
These are almost impossible to get to, especially if you have a BRP sports rack,and a failure can cause "limp home" mode. A real nuisance on the road!
While I expect people considering a Spyder will test ride both models I thought the info below was interesting. Based on a rider 6ft tall with a 32" inseam.
"Fenderz" (right) and LED replacement tip lights . See accessories
Like Phil's airbrushed artwork? What a great job!
Riding Style.
I know the Spyder requires a "different" riding style but I have to admit I have not tried this one - see photo on right.
Exhaust gaskets blown?
It seems a comon issue is the exhaust "Y" pipe gaskets falling apart. Symtoms are an increased exhaust sound (obviously) and a lot more heat coming from the area. I understand that an "identical" but more duable gasket is avaiable from Honda.The Honda GL1800 gaskets are part # 18392-MAM-000.
NEW PRODUCTS ....Have you noticed the new Audi and Mercedes cars with the LED rings around the headlights? I now have in stock something similar for the Spyder (see images below) Also from the same company an electric trunk release that works from a button on the console- no more stopping the motor to open the trunk and a great little trunk light. See my accesssory page .
Electric trunk release kit
New "missing" accessories for the GS/RS - the things that should have been there from new.- a belt guard to protect that expensive belt from stones, the "Missing air dam" to help your Spyder run cooler and the new "Air management system" to eliminate the "hot right foot" - see the products page.
Missing heat shield
Air management stystem
Missing air dam
New belt in Oz - $700 odd!!!
Belt guard with new weld nuts
Round Australia Blog
Hi Martin, I start my trip around OZ on the Sypder on the 13th feb. My blog is at www.bikingaroundoz.blogspot.com, feel free to share that with the other Spyder riders if you wish
Regards
Steve
Check your trailer!!
About a month ago I had the misfortune to have what could have been a serious (I mean serious) accident on the road from Wisemans Ferry to Mangrove Mountain. I was followed by a friend all the way, and at Spencer, where we stopped for coffee Len made a comment on how well the trailer I was towing was travelling. Not ten minutes later, as I rounded a series of bends, at relatively low speeds, I had my accident. It happened so quickly that I don't even recall what happened, and how it happened.
I found myself lying on my back with the Spyder on top of me - upside down, the trailer still hitched to the towbar, and lying on its side, with all the contents spilt on the roadway. I was helped to my feet, and it took a little while to comprehend what had happened. Somehow, the Spyder was thrown onto its right side, then bounced back to its left side, then rolled over.
Both mudguards had scratches on it, the windscreen was smashed, and the tacho/speedo cluster had fallen out. The left hand mirror was snapped off, and the rear left footrest bracket had snapped. The Spyder was pulled back onto its wheels, and once the speedo cluster was reinserted, it was able to be started, and eventually ridden back to Sydney. The trailer however, had to be put onto a towtruck as the towbar was damaged. For some days I was in a lot of pain, and after going to hospital, was told I had a fractured pelvis with subcutaceous haematosis (bleeding under the skin).
When at last I was able to bend, and lift, I did an autopsy on the trailer. I removed the body of the trailer from the chassis to confirm what I had suspected - at some time (the trailer was about 10 years old) I had ridden over a pothole / rock / bump which had been so severe that the floor of the trailer was torn. The chassis frame directly underneath had metal fatigue and cracks in the welding. So every time I went over another bump, not only was the damage spreading, but the mounting bolts were tearing through, until there would have been only a couple of bolts on one side holding the trailer onto the chassis.
That one right hand bend was enough to lift the body off the chassis, pass the centre of gravity (point of no return), cause the trailer to then roll, which then pulled the Spyder over. The shape of the Spyder, and the topbox saved me. This could have very easily have happened whilst towing with my previous bike - a BMW. I shudder to think what would have happened if it had been anything other than a Spyder. I walked away, and was able to ride home.
What I learned from this, I have passed on to others - we do checks on our mounts, but how often do we check our trailers? Three of my friends who also have trailer, have since, checked their trailers and found that similar failings were found. Trailer floors have carpets, gear, that can hide the true condition of the trailer.
Gideon Schuman
Watch your belt
Ken (Cookie) writes - haven’t been out for about 6 weeks as I spent a 10 day spell in hospital, and still waiting to get the staples out. Anyway that didn’t stop me from doing some work on my bike this week.
While I was in hospital I decided I’ll go around aussie beginning next February with some friends. So I ordered some bits for the bike – the Evo swaybar and an ISCI hand brake. Had them here in 3 days! Forgot about customs duty and taxes, so I got caught for more than I was expecting!
The swaybar is a little different – few more bends than the one you have, and the hand brake looks the part. Haven’t been for a ride yet – staples out of my knee tomorrow, so I’ll be tempted for a ride.
About 3000k’s ago I managed to put a hole in my drive belt. A blue metal stone was pushed nearly through it! I managed to get it out (with hammer & punch) and don’t know how long it will last, or if the belt tension has changed. I haven’t been nursing it to see if it fails, but it hasn’t so far. I think that’s because it wasn’t holed at the edge, it should be ok for a while. (see pics above) They want $758.80 for a belt here, but I’m going to get one from the states at $300 US. Didn’t damage any sprockets luckily.
Keeping the bugs off.
If you follow the US forums (Spyderlovers and Spydertalk) you will find that no other subject seems to bring so many different opinions than that windscreens.
In my opinion we are all different sizes and have different riding positions so for a windscreen to be "all things to all people" it really needs to be completely adjustable in angle and height. T he CHAD screen from Industries 7 in Canada performs very well but many people do not like the appearance and fewer still like the $600 plus price!
Mark from Madstad Engineering in the US has just released a very reaonably priced Spyder windscreen system that is adjustable to the extreme . This idea is not new as Madstad have sold thousands of their adjustable bracket sets for the Suzuki V-Strom over the past few years and people swear by them.
Negotiations with Mark at Madstad mean we should be able have a fully adjustable product that is, in my opinion, more aesthetically pleasing (smaller) while still performing well, for hundreds of dollars less than the price of previous offerings !- read more.
I have this fitted to my Spyder now and it performs brilliantly. Visor up at 100 kmph, air is smooth with virtually no turbulence!
Custom Dynamics "Street Magic" Spyder accessories in Australia.
Those of you that follow the Spyderlovers.com forum will be aware of the great feedback people post for these innovative Spyder accessories.
I am holding stock of a few items like the bar risers,the same as the ones I have fitted to my Spyder. These are available for both the SM5 and the SE5 in 3" and 4".
To quote Evan ("Magic Man") from the Spyderlovers forum -
"Spyders, like snowmobiles, Sea-Doos, ATVs must have the bars turned to make the unit turn! It is not possible the way the human body works to turn the bars with all this weight on your hands. You must remove some to almost all of your weight from you hands with your "core" muscles (lower back and stomach) to allow you to make your hands "light enough to turn the Spyder.
When risers are installed the driver is sitting without so much hand pressure. Which means the driver is no longer forced to have to constantly adjust the weight on their hands to turn the Spyder, and is then able to respond quicker, with less effort over a longer period of time (longer ride) "
Also I will have stock of the new STREET MAGIC High Flow Lifetime Spyder Air Filter These filters will be serviceable just like a K&N filter. How often depends on how and where (dusty or not) you ride just like your stock filter. Except rather than throwing out your stock filter when it get's dirty or crankcase blow by oil gets on it you can remover service and reuse this filter over and over again. They have a more ridgid frame than the stock filter and have a better seal onto the airbox (some people on the forums have reported dirt in the airbox because the original paper filter did not seal well on the airbox)
Spyder Ryders "Down Under" 
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